Sustainability (In Process)

Exposition CSM - Charing Cross

2007-06-21T15:18:00.000-07:00

A proposta era desenvolver uma coleção preocupada com os problemas sociais e naturais gerados pela industria da moda. Após algumas palestras que abordavam as etiquetas fair trade, materiais orgânicos, incentivos fiscais para empresas que se adaptassem a uma produção menos poluente preferimos focar nosso projeto no consumismo, que para nós seria a verdadeira causa do problema.
Em busca de mais referências teóricas para basear o projeto, encontramos um estudo da universidade de Cambridge chamado Well dressed?. O ponto de interrogação no título alertava para o consumo desenfreado de artigos de moda descartáveis a preços extremamente baixos, o que o estudo chama de fast fashion. A pesquisa atribui os problemas trabalhistas e ecológicos gerados pela industria da moda à produção de tendências instantâneas que induzem o consumidor a comprar artigos com o design do momento, que duram três semanas e custam até menos do que 1 libra esterlina ou 4 reais. A produção de peças tão baratas precisa de estruturas igualmente pouco custosas e essas geralmente envolvem trabalhos escravos em países pobres e formas de processamento pouco preocupadas com o meio ambiente.
Depois da pesquisa, decidimos que fazer uma coleção para ser consumida por mais uma temporada seria redundante para o tema e portanto decidimos montar uma exposição onde apresentamos a criatividade como solução para o problema da sustentabilidade na moda. A apresentação contou com um vídeo, uma sessão fotográfica e uma performance.
No vídeo, imagens de uma dia inteiro dentro de uma filial da Primark de Londres, a Meca do fast fashion onde roupas são pisoteadas pela multidão que se amontoa nas filas dos caixas de pagamento e levam consigo não menos que 4 sacolas cheias. Em meio às imagens, capas de revistas de moda ditam a ecotrend e em texto nossa ideia de que Sustain (sustentar) Ability (habilidade) é um processo (criativo), uma mudança no comportamento social.
Na sessão de fotos, sete mulheres de diferentes idades e origens foram convidadas para escolher um pedaço de pano e vesti-lo de duas maneiras diferentes. Nossa intenção era mostrar que com criatividade podemos multiplicar nosso guarda-roupa e diminuir nossas necessidade de consumo. Tivemos como base para essa sessão o Parangolé do artista brasileiro Hélio Oiticica que o conceito, acreditamos encaixar perfeitamente com nossa proposta. A performance foi uma tentativa de repetir a mesma experiência da sessão de fotos com nossa audiência durante a apresentação.

Elle Magazine - May 2007 - The Green Issue

2007-06-20T15:52:00.000-07:00

Photoshoot Research

2007-06-20T15:42:00.000-07:00

Exhibition - Scrapbook

2007-06-20T15:40:00.000-07:00

Articles

2007-06-20T15:27:00.000-07:00

Makeup research for photoshoot

2007-06-20T07:57:00.001-07:00

Exposition CSM- Development 1st stage

2007-06-18T08:36:00.000-07:00

The Document - Photo and Film Shoot

2007-06-14T17:36:00.000-07:00

CREW

Concept and Production: Olivia Cunha
Concept and Production: Petra Metzger
Hair: Andy
Makeup: Ciara
Makeup: Mayu
Makeup: Nana Accioly
Makeup: Pearl
Model: Alessandra Sampaio
Model: Alice Timmis
Model: Berverly Enrico
Model: Elena Stevanoska
Model: Myrian Baadi
Model: Renee Yearwood
Model: Wei-Chung
Photography: Allan Chiu (click for portfolio)

Script for Studio
All the models should choose one main fabric and make 3 options of garments. They can use only the main fabric or mixed it with other fabrics. Every model should have shoots of:
Showing the chosen fabric

Process
1st look
2nd look
3rd look

Furthermore, we need pictures of the group:

Girls in denim and white tank.
Girls in their new out-fits feeling really proud.
We can also have pictures of pairs.

The order of models will be:
1. Alessandra Hair: Curly Style: Colorful, prints, fun
2. Beverly Hair: Ponytail Style: Sporty, young, rap
3. Alice Hair: Up Style: Arty, messy
4. Wei-Chung Hair: Straight Style: Elegant (Black)
5. Renee Hair: No Style: Glamorous, diva
6. Elena Hair: Plait Style: Casual, good-girl
7. Myrien Hair: up Style: Ethnical

World AIDS Campaign PSA

2007-06-12T15:05:00.001-07:00

Join The Fight AIDS PSA Spanish - Julissa Bermudez

2007-06-12T15:04:00.001-07:00

Looking for Everyday People

2007-06-09T05:48:00.001-07:00

We are fashion design students from Central Saint Martins and looking for girls/women from different backgrounds and ages for a fashion shoot (film and photo) on the 13. June, next Wednesday from 9am until latest 4pm.
It will be a very active shoot, where you take part in your own styling process, working with squares of various fabrics to express yourselves and can be creative.
If you want to know more about the project there is a web side which shows our work in progress
http://sustainabilityinprocess.blogspot.com/
You will get a copy of the photos and film instead of payment.

Are you interested and want to get involved in this event?
Send us a photo of you via email.
Looking forward to work with you, Petra + Olivia

Parangole

2007-06-07T17:25:00.001-07:00

Parangole

2007-06-07T17:21:00.001-07:00

Parangole

2007-06-07T17:18:00.000-07:00

Parangole = Creativity, Participation, Amusement

2007-06-07T17:15:00.000-07:00

Looking for Allan - The Photographer

2007-06-07T16:45:00.000-07:00

Hi Allan,

sorry for my delay on sending you the details about the project.

Actually a lot of things happened during this time and another project just came up and maybe, it can become the one to show to Mr. Chalayan.

This new project is for CSM and I'm working with a German partner called Petra.

This is a quite important project because it deals with sustainability in fashion and me and Petra had developed a really strong concept that will became not a collection but an experience, and so, to look really proper its documentation have to be perfect.

For the documentation we think about pictures and a short movie and it will be almost all in studio.

The experiment:

We will call 10 women from different age and race. Blondes, Brunettes, Gingers, Orientals, Black, Caribbean. Inside a studio with white background, we are going to dispose some squares of different fabrics with diverse bright colors. Old look, transparent, silk, cotton, plain, printed. Thus, we ask these 10 girls to use these fabrics to create pieces of garments. A top, a skirt, a dress, bags...

Our inspiration is mainly an artist called Helio Oiticica, whose works are in a retrospective exhibition at TATE Modern now. Oiticica has made a series called “Parangole” which deals with creativity and participation of the public. In my web site, you can find the visual and text material for this project.

We are suppose to make the experiment in the end of next week, maybe the 14th June, and have to hand in the project in two weeks, 22nd June.

Do you have any interest?

The website is:

http://etiquetteintruders.blogspot.com/

Look for "Sustainability (In Process)" inside "Portfolio" list at the right side of the screen.

Look forward hearing from you.

Hope you enjoy.

Olivia.

Not Contemplation but Participation

2007-06-07T15:47:00.000-07:00

Parangole - Art to Dress

2007-06-06T04:27:00.000-07:00

"Agitação súbita ou alegria inesperada." Era o significado de parangolé na gíria dos morros cariocas nos anos 60. Era tanto o burburinho de uma roda de samba quanto o susto de uma batida policial. Mas para o artista plástico Hélio Oiticica parangolés eram capas de algodão ou náilon, com poemas em tinta sobre o tecido. Em repouso, quando estavam fechadas, lembravam "as asas murchas de um pássaro", segundo o poeta Haroldo de Campos. Bastava alguém vesti-las e abrir os braços para que se confundissem com uma "asa-delta para o êxtase", percebeu o poeta.

Be a Marginal, Be an Hero

2007-06-06T04:25:00.000-07:00

Can you be confident being yourself?

2007-06-06T04:24:00.001-07:00

Sure, no one wants to wear something with a lack of style but that is the point. What is to have style? Does it depend on spending hundreds of pounds in cheap pieces to try to look like every other girls / boy in town? I believe that style is attitude. Furthermore, attitude is what really worth, not speeches. So, if you are concerned about the environment, stop consuming. It looks easy, but is it? Can you be confident being yourself? Not pretending to look like the latest celeb?
If I can think about an alternative to help the world, it is called “creativity”.

Consuming vs. Organic Cotton

2007-06-06T04:01:00.000-07:00

The new trend is sustainability. Organic cotton, Fair Trade labels, t-shirts made of recycled pvc and bamboo. Hundreds of non-governmental organizations popped-up claiming better work conditions for the 3rd world fashion labours, defending less polluted ways to weave and dye fabrics and complaining about the waste of plastic shopping bags. However, is it an honest concern about the environment or could it be only another fashion trend?
It’s quite intriguing how suddenly the word “sustainability” started to show up everywhere. After decades of bulletins by scientists, geologists and journalists the world decided now to be alarmed about “Global Warming” and the end of natural resources in some decades. Harrods, the world matrix of glamour, expense and shopping decided to help the environment situation selling a hot recycling-conscious fair-trade label to sell shirts made of bamboo; Nike and GAP after the international scandal about the work conditions of their workers in Asia became the better employers in the world and TopShop choose organic cotton (less polluted) to produce some of their millions of pieces.
It’s not to deny the worthiness of those initiatives, although it can be a problem if all these statements about environment consciousness are in fact only another fashion trend. Because if it is a trend it will be gonne as soon as gonne all the movement against furs, for example. Remember 2 years ago when show a fury collection on the catwalk was a shame, and the whole fashion scene was really worried about the poor murdered lovely animals?
Reading the University of Cambridge report about the industry of fashion in UK and how “fast fashion” became the most dangerous “system” for our environment, we can start to think that maybe the problem we face in fashion now is another, is a problem of consuming attitude – quantity – and not the way clothes are being produced. “Fast Fashion” is the compulsive consumption of cheap clothes. Trends in fashion became so ephemeral that is more important (pleasurable) to wear the color of the week in a 5k dress rather than buy a little more expensive classic high quality piece that lasts for decades.